The Ladin Parade: Traditions, Costumes, and Culture in the Dolomites

Every fashion, language, tradition, and food are always closely tied to the territory and its history. To fully understand the history of Ladin customs, some historical context is necessary, without delving too deeply into the intricacies of history. The Dolomites, a "happy" island and homeland of a people called the "Ladins," were for a long time an integral part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The Ladin population was perfectly integrated into an Austrian reality; without feeling any subjugation to the Empire, the Ladins lived, dressed, ate, and danced (etc.) like many other parts of the Empire, certainly like all Tyroleans. It is undoubtedly important for the history of the costume to remember that the people of Fassa habitually traveled to other parts of Austria and even to Switzerland to work as decorators and musicians. From their travels, the men brought back not only melodies, memories, and new customs but also new habits and different tastes; some brought back to the valley beautiful fabrics or parts of women's costumes which they gifted to their families and often received in exchange for their services.
Wearing a costume for Ladin people, but also for Austrians, Tyroleans, Poles, and others, means first and foremost performing a ritual. Wearing a costume is a sacred thing, and the "dressing," the ritual of adorning oneself, is an act to be performed according to precise rules. The people of Fassa assert that the costume must be worn with a certain demeanor and that each costume relates to the wearer: only a Ladin can understand its language, only a Ladin can establish the necessary relationship to avoid appearing clumsy and ridiculous. It is needless to mention that the costume is tied to ethnicity, language, and shared history.

The Ladins, a minority people, probably more than other populations, have always felt the need to distinguish themselves; this distinction is made by wearing a costume that ties the person to a certain type of culture, language, tradition, and territory; all of which reveal a sacred bond that must not be broken. For these reasons, the typical costumes of Austrian and Tyrolean populations are still sewn at home or by the village seamstress and worn exclusively by locals. For the making of such garments, every detail, even the length of the stitch, follows specific reasons and rules because, as set theory also says, every single element constitutes the whole. Over the years, throughout Tyrol but also in other Austrian regions, alongside the traditional costume, Tyrolean fashion has emerged. The traditional costume was worn on the occasion of major religious festivals, weddings, fairs, important events like the Emperor's arrival, and it is still the case today, while Tyrolean fashion is worn for various reasons: because it is liked, because it is easy to find in boutiques and can also be accessible to everyone, because it is a modern fashion that does not imply a moral or ritual commitment, and because it is not tied to a specific place. This "Austrian" fashion style draws on some elements of the traditional costume, modernizing its structure and cut while neglecting the important symbolism hidden in traditional garments like the Fassa costume. Thus, the Tyrolean fashion called "Trachtenmode" has taken root and excited even populations on the other side of the earth, without harming the typical costume of each specific region but bringing great notoriety to the Austrian style.

Nowadays, throughout Austria, the Dolomites, and South Tyrol, there are shops, tailor shops, and even fashion shows presenting timeless and always current models, made with fabrics such as velvets, silks, linens, and cottons with unmistakable designs. Returning, however, to what every Ladin is proud to wear to distinguish themselves, we can say that nowadays there is a revival of the costume. The Ladins, after a dark period in the seventies, now wear their costume not only to please tourists, and the making of a costume is often a welcomed gift even if expensive. The fabrics are linen, silk, wool; natural fabrics that were once sold by the itinerant vendor, who habitually (often from the Sarntal Valley) passed from village to village. The seamstress came to the house and with only the help of scissors and thread, stayed in the house until the costume was finished. The payment consisted of board and lodging and natural goods. The costumes were handed down from grandparents to grandchildren and sometimes for more than four or five generations. The people of Fassa took great care of their treasures and felt beautiful in their dazzling clothes. Today, many people of Fassa who have not inherited ancient garments due to the poverty of their ancestors or who have disposed of them in disdain for the old and in favor of an opening to the new, go to the village seamstresses, few in truth, skilled in making such a costume and pay hefty sums so that their wardrobes and ancient trunks, but also they themselves, can still converse in that ancient language and relate to their history and culture by wearing its very traces; the costume called in Ladin "guant da zacan."

The Parade
‍Gran festa da d'Istà

43rd Edition 2024